Poised on a surfboard and dwarfed by a tower of water some 10 times her size, fear is one of the first emotions that big wave surfer Laura Crane feels before she hurtles down a 60-foot behemoth. “From ...

Jamie Clinard remembers what it was like growing up a surfer girl in San Clemente — wanting to ride waves, but so intimidated as the only girl among the boys that she found herself stuck on dry land, ...

Opening Shot: “I love surfing,” Eweleiula Wong, 19, says over action shots of her on a wave. “It’s my life, and it’s my favorite thing in the world.” The Gist: Surfing became an Olympic event for the ...